Thursday, May 20, 2010

turkiye, here i come!

Well, i spent the last week and a half working my way across Georgia. too many stories to post here, but i am converted to the church of Couchsurfing, suffice to say.
i spent 4 days in Tbilisi and then left for one night in Borjomi. Borjomi is to the south and was kind of a spa/ resort town for soviets during the CCCP days. there is a mineral spring there that is bottled and is reputed to be good for your health, but alot of westerners (myself included) think it tastes like feet. but the town itself was quaint. nestled in the mountains. there is a creek that runs out of the hills and feeds into a raging river. i hiked up the creek into the forest when i was there. peaceful. good to be surrounded by trees. but that was about it.
took a marshutka (minibus- the main form of public transportation) to tkibuli to crash on a couch for two nights. my first couch surfing experience. stayed with a czech woman who is an EVS volunteer (European version of the Peace Corps), working for an NGO that a czech group started. it was a small town, way out in the sticks. there i learned that georgians actually still kinda hold up Stalin as a national symbol. they seem to not focus on WHAT he did so much as simply tout the fact that he is the most famous person in the world to hail from Georgia in the last 100 years. so yeah. there is a fucking statue of Stalin in front of the city hall. larger than life and completely surreal...like "Where am I? What year is it?"
there is another statue of the man at the entrance to a now defunct and decrepit ex-coal mine on the edge of town. i got a couple of great photos. next time i get my puter online, i'll photo dump.
from there i went to zugdidi, a town in the west, about half an hour from the border with Georgia's Russia-backed autonomous region of Abkazia, in the northwest. i stayed with a spanish guy who worked as a security monitor on the ceasefire at the border. went out with his friends and met some great internationals from the Czech republic, slovakia, sweden, spain, poland, the states, scotland. had a few pints and talked shop and asked questions. it was pretty cool. don't wanna freak you out, mom, but it was exciting to be told that yes, in fact, i was in a city that is within what is considered a 'conflict area', meaning that shit still isn't settled and you may not be as safe as it seems...but it actually did seem pretty safe. and zugdidi is a really cute town with a bbig park in the center of the city with huge fir trees. all the houses have fresh fruit trees all around. fig, plum, tangerine, pear, apple, walnut. had some good georgian wine and made dinner the second night and then i got a ride in the EU bulletproofed landrover to the bus station this morning and now i am in Batumi, down, 30 km north of the Turkish border. right on the black sea. i walked down to the water and soaked my feet for a while today. met two backpackers from Iran at the beach and helped them find the hotel (they were looking for the one i am staying at). its wild to make friends from places that you cannot go to. learn firsthand that people are people. build international relationships, one facebook add at a time. har har.
but yeah. its good to be here. back to the water. the black sea is actually pretty turquoise, at least, this time of year. tomorrow i'll take another marshutka to turkiye. it will sadly be my last, for in turkiye, the same vehicles are called dolmus. and i think they are a little more expensive.
tomorrow i go to Trabzon, on the turkish black sea coast. 1 or 2 days there and then a night in Samsun. from what i understand, samsun is a good jumping-off point for Cappadoccia, so there i will head.
its looking like i'm not going to get the internship at this point, so i am now wholeheartedly throwing myself into travelling Turkiye for 3 weeks instead of 1. with couchsurfing, it seems totally do-able and i am getting really excited.
when i found the hotel today and got settled (may i add that my room is like $12 for the night?), i met a couple that just came from Turkiye. the guy was from england and the woman was from Italy. backpacker vagabonds. he had just spent 4 months travelling turkiye. heading to georgia, azerbaijan, kazakstan and china. good luck, brother (and sister). but homey gave me his dog-eared, well worn and well-loved copy of Lonely Planets Rough Guide to turkiye. 800 pages of knowledge. and a pocket sized turkish language book. didn't need it anymore and just asked me to pass it on when i am done with it. this felt like very good mojo for embarking on the next leg of my trip.
georgia has been amazing. friendly people. rich (current) history that i knew very little of. the political situation is so fucking complex and interesting. i think back to when i first came out in january and the main goal was to spend a weekend in Tbilisi and now i have travelled clear across the country and i feel so fortunate for all of these experiences that life has afforded me. i am a little sweaty and stinky. my feet are tired and my backpack is heavy but it feels really good to be here.
i miss you all. wish you were here to share some memories with me. but i'll bring home pictures and stories.

2 comments:

  1. Ok, Bud- When you get back- remind me that you're grounded. (BTW I'm not the ONLY one who freaks)

    I have to admit- I'm a bit jealous of the experiences- but never could have handled the backpacking /couchsurfing stuff.

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  2. does grounded mean that you are going to feed me and do my laundry? or at least let me do laundry for free and cook us food? because that sounds ok...

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